Most recently, I traveled to Las Vegas, the adult Disney World, city of hopes, dreams and disappointments. My purpose was to find properties that could be included in future editions of “Stern’s Guide to the Greatest Resorts of the World.” Pursuant to my quest, I stayed (for two nights each) at the Ritz Carlton at Lake Las Vegas, and on “The Strip” at Wynn/Encore and at Bellagio. Additionally, I toured Caesar’s Palace, Paris, MGM Grand and the Venetian.

            Unfortunately I was not able to justify including any of these properties in my Guide. 

            The Ritz Carlton was most disappointing, having cut back on most of its services and amenities, including having no real dinner venue during the week, and serving a limited breakfast and lunch only in the lobby. To make matters worse, the resort is located right next to a non-upscale entertainment-shopping center where second-rate bands pound out loud music until late many evenings disturbing guests’ sleep. The resort has a pool, but no tennis courts or golf course. My guess is that Ritz Carlton will abandon the property in the future in order to maintain their reputation.

            I had heard so many favorable opinions from friends about Bellagio and its dancing fountains, that I could not help but have very high expectations. I have to admit that the hotel is classier than most of the other properties on “The Strip” (Las Vegas Boulevard). Bellagio has a lovely pool area and offers outstanding dining options and production shows (if you can afford the tariffs); however, the standard guest accommodations were rather ordinary with few amenities. The suites, on the other hand, were quite lavish and the best choice. Here again there were no tennis courts and no golf course or other sport facilities, save a state-of-the-art fitness center (that exacts a $25 per person daily tariff). Overall impression: This is a giant hotel geared to gambling, expensive dining, shopping and “O’, a Cirque du Soleil production show.

            Wynn built in 2005 and its attached sibling, Encore which debuted in December of 2008, are reputed to be the most expensive, most extravagant properties to ever adorn the Las Vegas strip, and the only one’s to boast their own golf course. Accommodations at both properties are desirable, spacious and filled with amenities. Those at Encore have a far more appealing decor. The smallest guest room at Wynn measures 640 square feet, and at Encore 700 square feet. Various categories of suites and apartments range in size up to 5,600 square feet. (Of course as size increases, so does the price). The enormous, landscaped pool area is dynamic, as are the casino, water and garden venues, the Cirque du Soleil performance and fine-dining restaurants. However, here again, the impression is that of a humongous hotel geared to assisting their guests relieve themselves of their money at the gaming tables, restaurants, shows, shops and just about everywhere else. Breathtakingly beautiful, but not a locale to relax and reflect.

            Caesar’s Palace, the Venetian and Paris are all properties elaborately adorned with replicas of statuary and constructions representative of their namesakes. The reproductions of the Trevi Fountain, Vatican, Forum, Parthenon, etc. at Caesar’s were outstanding and the attached Forum Shopping Center is probably the most exclusive in the world. The spa was the most exotic, complete and appealing I have seen. Although an older, more venerable property, frequent renovations and recent additions has allowed it to hold its own with the new kids on the block.

            The Venetian’s unique architecture and attractions include replicas of the Grand Canal lined with shops and restaurants, with gondolas running throughout the property, as well as, authentic reproductions of the Rialto Bridge and San Marco Square ( sensa pigeons).

 Similarly Paris, with its totally French environment and theme, has astounding replicas of the Eiffel Tower (including a restaurant midway up-with a view), the Arch de Triumph and other Parisian landmarks and points of interest.

            Overall, these were exciting, interesting, artistic and elaborate hotels, fascinating to explore and enjoy, but not retreats in which to relax, savor and luxuriate. Las Vegas is a gambler’s and epicurean’s Valhalla. However, one must be prepared to spend big bucks even if they are able to procure a hotel at reasonable rates. Those that have perused my resort guide will realize that my preference is for more romantic, unusual properties in picturesque environments that one can enjoy for longer periods of time. Las Vegas was just not my bag—but as they say: “one man’s poison is another man’s treasure.”

 

Steven Stern (Nov. 2009)